Theth, Albania: Complete Solo Travel Guide
Tucked away in the Albanian Alps, Theth, Albania is easily one of it’s best-kept secrets and honestly, no trip to the country is complete without experiencing it. Think dramatic mountain peaks, traditional stone houses, and hiking trails that’ll make you forget the rest of the world exists.
I spent three days in Theth in June and it quickly became the highlight of my entire Albania trip. In this guide, I’m breaking down everything you need to know: how to actually get there (it’s an adventure in itself), the best hikes, where to stay, and how to make the most of your time in this stunning valley.
Why Visit Theth, Albania?
If you’re into dramatic mountain scenery and proper off-the-grid vibes, Theth needs to be on your list. The valley is surrounded by jagged peaks, and the hikes here are incredible, think crystal-clear lagoons, hidden waterfalls, and trails that wind through some of the most stunning landscapes in the Balkans.
But what really makes Theth special is the pace of life. There’s no ATM, limited Wi-Fi, and the roads are… let’s just say adventurous. It forces you to slow down and actually be present. Plus, the locals are genuinely welcoming, you’ll likely end up chatting with guesthouse owners over homemade raki and feel like part of the community within a day.
It’s the kind of place that reminds you why you started solo traveling in the first place.
How to Get to Theth, Albania
Getting to Theth can be a little bit tricky, as the village is tucked deep in the Albanian Alps. The easiest way is to first travel to Shkodër, and spend the night there. Most of the transport to Theth leaves early in the morning, typically between 7:00 AM and 9:00 AM.
From Shkodër, you’ll take a shared minibus known as a furgon. Almost all hotels and guesthouses in Shkodër can arrange this transfer for you, so it’s worth asking at reception when you check in. The journey usually costs €10–€15, and takes around 2.5–3 hours, depending on road conditions and stops along the way.
Where to Stay in Theth, Albania?
I stayed at Thethi Villas and honestly had a great experience. It’s located at the far end of the village (though Theth is tiny, so “far” is relative), which puts you close to the famous Theth Church and right near the trailhead for the Grunas Waterfall hike. The rooms were clean, comfortable, and the hosts were welcoming.
If Thethi Villas is booked, a couple of other solid options are Alpine House and Bujtina Pllumi Theth — both get great reviews from solo travellers.
Booking links:
Quick tips: Most guesthouses include breakfast and dinner (usually traditional Albanian food), and prices are pretty reasonable expect around €20-30 per night. Book ahead in summer since Theth is getting more popular.
Day 1: Arrival, Church Hike & Grunas Waterfall
You’ll likely arrive in Theth in the late morning or early afternoon after the bumpy furgon ride from Shkoder or Tirana. Check into your guesthouse (or at least drop your bags) and take some time to settle in and explore the village, it won’t take long since Theth is pretty small. Grab breakfast or lunch at one of the local spots to fuel up for the day ahead.
Once you’re ready, head out for your first hike to the Church of Theth. It’s about a 30-minute walk from the village center and sits perfectly in the middle of the valley with mountain views all around. The church itself is small and charming, and the walk there is easy and scenic.
From the church, keep heading in the same direction and you’ll reach the Lock-in Tower (Kulla e Ngujimit), a fascinating stone tower that’s part of Theth’s history. This also marks the trailhead for the Grunas Waterfall hike.
The Grunas hike is another easy 30-minute walk, mostly flat until the final stretch where it gets steep. The waterfall itself is beautiful—cold, clear water surrounded by dense forest. Totally worth the climb.
On the way back to Theth (about 1-2 hours depending on your pace), there are a few spots to grab drinks or snacks, so you don’t have to power through the whole thing. Once you’re back in the village, grab dinner at one of the local restaurants. I’d highly recommend Gurra Family Restaurant—classic Albanian dishes, generous portions, and genuinely friendly service.
After a full day of hiking, you’ll probably be ready for an early night. Rest up, because Day 2 is where things get even better.
Photo's From Day 1
Day 2: Blue Eye Hike & Zipline
Day 2 is hands down one of the best days of the entire trip. The Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër) was honestly one of my favorite things I did in all of Albania—it’s that good.
Start your morning with breakfast at your guesthouse (most include it), then get ready for the hike. There are a few ways to get to the Blue Eye trailhead: there’s a local bus, or you can arrange a taxi through your accommodation or one of the villagers. When I was walking to the bus stop, a guy in a 4×4 pulled up and offered me a lift for €5—a bit more than the bus, but worth it for the convenience and the ride itself.
Once you’re dropped at the carpark, the hike begins. It starts off pretty flat and easy for the first kilometer or so, then gradually gets steeper as you climb higher into the mountains. The trail is well-marked and takes about 1.5-2 hours depending on your pace.
When you reach the Blue Eye, you’ll immediately understand why it’s called that. The water is this wild turquoise blue, surrounded by rocky cliffs and forest. It’s stunning. There’s a small bar up there if you want food or a cold drink, and you can actually swim in the lagoon—just be warned, the water is freezing. There’s even a spot where you can jump in if you’re feeling brave.
The hike back down is straightforward—just follow the same trail to the carpark. When I finished, there were locals offering lifts back to Theth in their 4x4s, so I hopped in. Otherwise, the bus will be waiting at the carpark. If you start early, you should be back in Theth by early afternoon.
Zipline Over the Valley
If you’ve got energy left (and honestly, even if you don’t), do the zipline. It’s a 1,200-meter ride from the top of the valley straight down into Theth, with panoramic views the whole way. It’s exhilarating and gives you a completely different perspective of the landscape.
The zipline costs €25 per person, and if you head to the bottom station in the village, they’ll give you a lift up to the launch point. Totally worth it.
After all that adventure, you’ll be ready to relax. Head to Villa Gjecaj Restaurant for dinner—it has beautiful outdoor seating overlooking the valley, serves delicious traditional Albanian food, and it’s run by a lovely family where you can see everyone pitching in. The vibe is warm and authentic.
Get an early night after dinner. The Blue Eye and Grunas hikes were just warm-ups—Day 3 is the big one.
Photos From Day 2
Day 3, Valbona Pass Hike
Day 3 is the big one—the hike you came to Theth for. Start your morning early with breakfast at your guesthouse. I’d recommend leaving around 8:00am to give yourself plenty of daylight and avoid hiking in the afternoon heat, especially in summer.
Today’s route is the famous Valbona Pass, a challenging but absolutely rewarding trek through the Albanian Alps. The full hike from Theth to Valbona is about 12-15km and takes roughly 6-9 hours depending on your fitness level and how many photo stops you take. Most people either do it as a one-way hike (staying in Valbona afterward and continuing their travels from there) or turn back at the pass like I did.
I chose to hike up to the top of the pass rather than doing the full 30km round trip into Valbona, and honestly, that was the right call for me. The climb is steep and relentless in sections—your legs will feel it—but the views from the top are absolutely worth every step. You get panoramic views of both the Theth and Valbona valleys, with jagged peaks stretching out in every direction. It’s one of those moments where you just stop and take it all in.
The trail starts off relatively gentle as you leave Theth, winding through green meadows and past a few stone houses. About 45 minutes in, you’ll come across a small mountain café—a perfect spot to grab a coffee, some snacks, or use the bathroom before the real climb begins. You can also stop here on your way back down for a well-deserved lunch.
After the café, the trail gets significantly steeper. You’ll be climbing through rocky terrain, crossing small streams, and navigating switchbacks as you ascend toward the pass. The landscape shifts from lush valley floors to alpine meadows and eventually to rockier, more dramatic mountain scenery. It’s tough, but the trail is well-marked with red and white blazes.
Once you reach the pass (around 1,800 meters), you’ll hit the border marker between Theth and Valbona. This is the turnaround point if you’re heading back to Theth. Take your time up here—catch your breath, soak in the views, and maybe have a snack before starting the descent.
The way back down is easier on your lungs but harder on your knees, so take it slow and steady. If you left at 8am, you should be back in Theth by mid-to-late afternoon.
What to Bring:
- Plenty of water (at least 2-3 liters, especially in summer)
- Snacks or a packed lunch
- Sunscreen and a hat
- Layers—it can be warm at the bottom but chilly and windy at the pass
- Good hiking boots with ankle support
- A portable charger if you want to take photos (learn from my mistake!)
This hike is tough, but it’s hands-down one of the best things you can do in Albania. Even if you’re not an experienced hiker, it’s doable, you just need to pace yourself and take breaks when you need them.
Leaving Theth, Albania
Leaving Theth
Getting out of Theth is surprisingly easier than getting in. There’s a help station in the center of the village where you can buy tickets for the furgon (minivan) back to Shkoder. The furgons usually leave in the morning, around 7-8am but some also leave around 11am-12pm. Just confirm the exact time with your guesthouse or at the help station the day before. The ride takes about 3 hours and costs around €10-15.
From Shkoder, you can continue your journey to other parts of Albania, whether that’s heading south to the coast or back to Tirana.
If You Hiked to Valbona:
If you completed the full Valbona Pass hike and stayed in Valbona instead of returning to Theth, the journey out is a bit more involved but totally doable. You’ll catch a bus from Valbona to Fierze, then take the scenic Lake Koman ferry (one of the highlights of the trip—the views are incredible), and finally another bus from the ferry terminal to Shkoder. The whole journey takes most of the day, so plan accordingly.
Valbona Pass
Practical Tips for Visiting Theth, Albania
Cash is Essential
There’s no ATM in Theth, so bring all the cash you’ll need from Shkoder or Tirana before you arrive. Guesthouses, restaurants, taxis, and activities like the zipline all operate on cash only. I’d recommend bringing more than you think you’ll need—better to have extra than run short. Euros are widely accepted alongside Albanian lek.
Limited Phone Signal and Wi-Fi
Don’t expect reliable phone signal or internet in Theth. Some guesthouses have basic Wi-Fi, but it’s slow and patchy at best. Your phone will probably work for emergencies, but streaming, uploading photos, or staying constantly connected isn’t really an option. Honestly, the digital detox is part of what makes Theth special—embrace it.
What to Pack
Good hiking boots are absolutely essential. The trails are rocky, steep in places, and can be slippery after rain. Don’t attempt the Valbona Pass in trainers, you’ll regret it. Bring layers too, since it can be warm in the valley but significantly cooler (and windier) up at the pass. A rain jacket is worth throwing in your bag even in summer, as mountain weather can change quickly.
Pack plenty of sunscreen and a hat—there’s limited shade on most trails, and the sun is strong at altitude. A reusable water bottle is a must, and consider bringing a portable charger since electricity can be unreliable and you’ll want your phone charged for photos and emergencies.
Best Time to Visit
June to September is the ideal window for visiting Theth. I went in June and the weather was perfect, warm but not scorching, and the trails were clear. July and August are peak season, so expect more crowds (though it’s still nowhere near as busy as other European destinations). September is great for cooler hiking temperatures and fewer tourists, but some guesthouses start closing for the season toward the end of the month.
Avoid visiting in winter unless you’re prepared for serious snow and potentially impassable roads. Spring (April-May) can be beautiful, but trails might still be muddy or snow-covered depending on the year.
Food and Restaurants
Most guesthouses include breakfast and dinner in their rates, and the food is generally traditional Albanian food, think grilled meats, fresh salads, byrek, and homemade bread. It’s hearty, filling, and perfect after a long day of hiking. If you want to eat out, there are a handful of restaurants in the village. I’d recommend Gurra Family Restaurant and Villa Gjecaj Restaurant—both serve delicious local food with a warm, family-run atmosphere.
Vegetarian options can be limited, so if you have dietary restrictions, it’s worth mentioning this when you book your guesthouse so they can accommodate you.
Getting Around
Theth is tiny, so you’ll be walking everywhere within the village itself. For hikes like the Blue Eye, you’ll need transport to the trailhead—either the local bus or a taxi arranged through your guesthouse. Don’t be surprised if a local offers you a lift in their 4×4; it’s pretty common and usually costs around €5-10 depending on the distance.
Safety
Theth is very safe, even for solo travelers. The locals are incredibly welcoming and helpful, and I never felt unsafe wandering around alone. The trails are well-marked, but it’s still smart to let your guesthouse know which hike you’re doing and when you expect to be back, especially if you’re tackling the Valbona Pass solo.
Book Ahead in Summer
Theth is getting more popular, and accommodation fills up quickly during July and August. If you’re visiting in peak season, book your guesthouse at least a few weeks in advance to avoid disappointment.
FAQ
How many days do you need in Theth?
2-3 days is ideal. This gives you enough time to do the Blue Eye hike, Grunas Waterfall, explore the village, and tackle the Valbona Pass if you’re up for it. You could squeeze it into one full day if you’re short on time, but you’d be rushing.
Can you do the Valbona Pass hike in one day?
Yes, absolutely. Most people either hike the full route from Theth to Valbona (one-way, 6-9 hours) and continue their travels from there, or hike up to the pass and return to Theth the same day like I did. Both are doable in a day if you start early.
Is Theth safe for solo travelers?
Very safe. I felt completely comfortable traveling solo in Theth. The locals are welcoming and helpful, and the village has a peaceful, community feel. Just let your guesthouse know which hikes you’re planning so someone knows where you are.
Do you need a car to visit Theth?
No. The furgon (minivan) from Shkoder is the most common way to get there, and once you’re in Theth, the village itself is tiny and walkable. For hikes like the Blue Eye, you can arrange taxis or take the local bus from the village.
Is there phone signal and Wi-Fi in Theth?
Phone signal is limited and unreliable. Some guesthouses have basic Wi-Fi, but it’s slow and patchy. Download offline maps before you arrive and embrace being off the grid for a few days.
When is the best time to visit Theth?
June to September is ideal. I visited in June and the weather was perfect—warm but not too hot, and all the trails were clear. July and August are peak season, so expect more tourists. May can still have snow on higher trails like the Valbona Pass.
Conclusion
Theth, Albania is hands down one of the most stunning places I’ve ever visited. If you’re into incredible hiking, genuine local hospitality, and a proper off-grid escape, it’ll easily become a highlight of your Albania trip—maybe even your entire Balkans adventure. Don’t skip it.
You can follow more of my travels on Instagram at @TheSoloTG, and if you’ve been to Theth or have questions about planning your trip, drop a comment below—I’d love to hear from you!
Planning your Albania itinerary? Check out my guide on my Top 10 Essential Travel Tips to get inspired for your trip.